Erice, Sicily

On the second morning, we woke desperate for a grocery store.  (Yes, desperate.  We drank our last 2-liter water bottle and the stores closed on New Year's Day.  I guess the Mafia controls the water quality in western Sicily so like the Sicilians, I refused tap water.)   We pulled the two kids by their sleeves the three blocks to Simply market observing the decaying buildings and rusting cars as we walked.  In the store,  I begged them to lower their voices ("Do you guys hear anyone else yelling in here?") as we tried to figure out which white carton contained milk.  Luckily, some grocery items remain universal as we found a delicious rotisserie chicken and of course, honey-nut Cheerios.  I practiced ignoring my children as they argued in one of the aisles until an elderly Italian man approached them and seemed to inquire "where is the mother."  We survived the store and enjoyed zeppole, Italian donuts, and cappuccino at a Pasticcerie.

Upon returning to the apartment, Alessandro, Merta, and Charlie offered to take us to Erice - a walled architecturally medieval city that dates from ancient times.   We piled in the Fiat (without seat belts or car seats) and wound our way up the mountain.  Alessandro insisted we stop at an lookout.  I suppressed my panic as I watched speeding cars swing around the "look out."

When we arrived, we walked through the Porta Trapani and went to the Chiesa Madre, a massive Gothic Church from 1314.

I tried a cassata, a Sicilian dessert consisting of sponge cake and ricotta cheese layers covered with colorful marzipan.  Definitely too sweet, even for me. Two desserts down - eight to go.

We walked through the city to the 12th century Castello di Venere, a castle built on the site of the ancient temple of Aphrodite, chunks of which are incorporated into the walls.  This castle sits on a cliff and offers incredible views of Trapani and the water front.  Emily insisted on using her camera to capture the amazing scenes.

She directed each of us including Alessandro when he offered to take a picture of our family.  I realized a little late that I had forgotten to change my aperture, so it appears Emily is taking pictures of heaven.

I did manage to get a few great shots.

Trapani, Sicily

We woke up New Year's Day a bit disoriented.  After listening to firecrackers all night, I needed a cappuccino.  Alessandro graciously offered us a tour of his beloved city.  Still unsure of distance and fearing the kids would not survive a two hour walk, we piled in his Fiat with his recently adopted begeal, Charlie, and his other guest Merta and drove 5 minutes into the city center.  I learned that West Sicily, where Trapani sits, is traditionally poor and heavily influenced by Arab and Phoenician culture.  The city layout resembles the Middle East more then the rest of Europe.  We started at the Villa Margherita gardens and immediately spotted a playground.  Of course, we had to stop.

The beautiful park included centenarian trees and a bird conservatory.  Owen and Charlie loved the animals.

We walked the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the pedestrian main street that was still decorated for Christmas and almost completely deserted.  Alessandro pointed out Churches that dated from the 1200s tucked between restored medieval buildings.  We stopped at a cafe and I ate my first of the top ten desserts in Sicily - cannoli.

Originally a Phoenician trading center and port (yes - the city is that old), Trapani flourished form BC through the Middle Ages.  Although now layered in grime, the architecture amazed me and the sea provided picturesque views.

Since all of the restaurants and grocery stores remained closed for New Year's, we ended our first day once again eating dinner at Alessandro's.

A Wedding Poem

We ended 2012 like a bride preparing for her wedding.   "Something old" to connect us with the home. "Something new" representing our new journey and life ahead. "Something borrowed"  reminds us we can depend on our friends and family. "Something Blue" to symbolize love, modesty, and fidelity.  

Something Old:  Dave woke up early and went straight to the Slingbox.  As I laid in bed, I could hear, "Catch the ball" quickly followed by a tiny echo repeating the sentiments.  Dave and the kids sweat through the morning watching the Skins-Cowboys game.  In order to predict the mood for the day,  I looked at the results, discovered the Skins won, and went back to bed.

Something New:  In October, Dave found the farthest point south to which Ryan Air flew, Sicily.  Ryan Air sells no frills discounted flights throughout Europe.  Located about 75 min from Frankfurt, we arrived at the airport over thee hours before our flight.  We packed three outfits each to last over a week since we only purchased one carry-on.  I found a two bedroom apartment (with a washing machine) - and the owner volunteered to pick us up at the airport and prepare New Year's Eve dinner.  Ah, yes. Raised to fear strangers, I felt nervous, but I heard Italians are nice.  Our flight arrived thirty minutes early, and Alessandro met us with his little blue Fiat. We enjoyed Italian sausages, red wine, and a Sicilian potato dish his mother had made.  His great grandfather built this century old building in which we are staying.  With its hand painted tile floors and over 15 foot ceilings,  it provides an idyllic Sicilian accommodation.

Something Borrowed:   While I listed to fireworks seemingly set off outside my window from 12-4 in the morning,  I wish I had borrowed my sister's ear plugs.  I will take her advice and travel with them in the future.  (As I laid there unable to sleep, I wish I had borrowed some of Mrs. T's books.)

Something Blue:  The Mediterranean

Christmas Week

We began Christmas week frantically searching for a pediatrician.  Owen's fever refused to subside. With our beloved doctors 4000 miles away, we need a local person we trust.  Several phone calls later, I found a German practice that could see him immediately.  A quick strep test solved the problem and 24hrs and two antibiotic doses later, Owen asked "When are we going outside?"

Emily and Owen begged us to let them ride their bikes to the Christmas Markets.   They rode to the U-bahn, biked along the river - stopping at a playground - and found an Italian cafe where they had gelato for lunch and I had an Amaretto cappuccino.  Looking at the German architecture, the decked-out Christmas booths, and the 30-foot Christmas tree, I felt like I was watching a movie.

Eager to experience Frankfurt traditions, on Christmas Eve we woke our napping children, put them on their bikes, and headed downtown for the "pealing of the bells."  At 5:00 on Christmas Eve, 50 bells from 10 of the downtown churches ring together for 30 minutes.  Frankfurt began this tradition in 1954.  We followed the flow of people right to the city center.  Then we got caught.  Reminiscent of Times Square on New Year's Eve,  thousands of people squished together in the small platz.  We felt like we were suffocating and after ten minutes decide to get out.  Tightly gripping both kids' hands, I navigated the crowd hoping to see Dave and the bikes at the other end.  I could hear Owen screaming, "These people keep pushing me.  I hate them," as I pulled him along.  Amazingly, as we neared the U-bahn and the people cleared, we could still hear the bells loud and clear.  The kids biked around the circle as we listened to the 70 tons of metal ringing in harmony.

When we returned to the apartment, our neighbors invited us for Puerto Rican pasteles, wine, rum-cream cake, and the lightening of the Advent Wreath.  

After the kids set the stockings up on the floor and wrote Santa one last letter.

Santa came and we spent Christmas Day opening gifts, eating pancakes - followed by cookies - and watching movies.  We never took our pajamas off.

     

Back in Time: Day 2

I feared a night in a boutique hotel would result in "Please stop jumping around.  That is fragile.  Shhh.  Do you hear any one else yelling?"  So, I found apartments at a farm ten minutes from Rothenburg.  The kids could feed the animals and run out their energy.  We navigated windey, dark, narrow roads in the rain to find this place.  I stayed calm when the house number in our GPS appeared not to exist.  I ignored Dave's look of distress and called the number I had carefully copied on a yellow sticky.  No answer.  I tried again.  Losing patience, Dave took the phone.  As I read him the number, he gave me a funny look.  "That is my cell number."

I knocked on a random door and thankfully, he could direct us to the right farm.  The kids loved the spacious rooms and the owner brought fresh breads, eggs, marmalade,  coffee and juice in the morning.

After breakfast, we met the animals.

Emily loaded the buckets with cow food and brought them to the 10 cows.  We learned these cows did not produce milk and were raised for meat.

We returned to Rothenburg and strolled the MUCH less crowded streets. (I strategically planned a Sunday night trip.)

The kids picked out bears at the speciality shop.

I just loved the architecture and the market.

We ended the day with delicious Chinese food and a walk on the wall.