After a December full of long hours, stomach flus and colds, I anticipated a weekend eating breads, drinking wine, exploring Renaissance art, and indulging in Italian leather and more importantly, laughing until midnight with a close companion. My friend Diane, posted in Vienna, met me for the three day excursion in Florence. Still adjusting to the balance of a new (second) baby and the demands of a full time job, she craved an escape as much as I did.
The women at the Consulate raved about the January sales at a place called "The Mall" an outlet for out-of-season products from Italian brands such as Prada and Gucci. I coupled my weekend of eating and art with a quick purse-shopping trip. I arrived early on the Friday of MLK weekend and followed a motley crew to the bus station for a ride to the outlets. These women go every day of their trip, but I only devoted Friday to this excursion. An hour later, the bus pulled up to Italy's Leesburg. I knew two hours gave me plenty of time.
For Saturday morning, I found a "Florence Food Tour" on Trip Advisor. We met our guide in a Segway store in a deserted ally for what turned into a private tour. No one travels to Europe in January.
We started at a coffee house where we learned how to make espresso properly, how the beans are found and about the different coffee bean roasts. (Coffee bean pickers recognize poop from the below animal to find the best crop.)
Our tour guide translated as the owner provided a passionate dissertation.
 |
| Our Guide |
 |
| The coffee bar owner. |
Next we went to the oldest truffle shop in the city. While truffles are in the fungi family, they are not mushrooms as I thought. Instead, truffles are tubers which are hunted by trained pigs and dogs. Like gold, they cannot be "grown" and instead are "found" making them extremely valuable.
 |
| A truffle-cream sandwich. |
 |
| In the 1500's people used this window to sell wine. |
Next, we went to family-owned wine and sandwich shop. The store originated in the 1500's when it was used to sell fish. The family recently renovated it and turned the marble fish baths into beautiful displays. We learned about Chianti Classico, the wine of Tuscany. The rooster tells consumers that it was produced in the Chianti region. Sadly, most true Chianti wines are not exported.
The store also carried prosciutto and salami from local farmers.
Next, we went to San Lorenzo Mercato Centrale, a market full of olive oil stands, fish mongrels, butchers, and bakeries. We learned Biscotti refers to all cookies not just twice baked ones.
We tasted amazing olive breads...
and soup.
We sampled balsamic vinegers and had an incredible liquor in which you dip cookies.
Finally, gelato….
We spent the rest of the afternoon digesting as we stopped in Italian boutiques where practically everything said 50% off. (I could not resist some skirts, pants, and a camo-jacket.) Italian leather shoes decorated dozens of windows. One persistent leather guy, on a side rode, insisted we look at his jackets. One appeared perfect for Diane, so of course, I had to try it on too. "You look like you are 25." "You girls must capture all the men." "I am giving you a great deal."
Of course, I ended the day with a new leather jacket.
The next day, I organized a "Context" tour of the Uffizi Gallery. I discovered "Context" through Trip Advisor and loved the concept. They "provide in-depth alternatives to traditional tours by using a network of architects, historians, art historians, and other specialists." AND the tours are in English. The Paris tours booked early so Florence provided my first opportunity. Patricia Rucidlo, our guide breathed the Italian Renaissance. She described the Medici's and the dynamics between Raphael and Michelangelo like she knew them personally. I loved every minute of it. We again walked right into one of the busiest museums in Europe. Gotta love traveling in January. An older couple (like at least 70's) from California joined the tour. (He was a well connected venture capitalist sporting his Notre Dame green. "Yes, Mark Zuckerman is a pretty nice guy.")
