Rome Food Tour

I organized tours for each day in Rome.  I created a schedule and printed an itinerary for my father.  On our second day, we took a cab to Testaccio, a traditional working class neighborhood known for its butchers, pizza, and pastries.  The food tour included 12 tastings and several historical sights.

We arrived early so Dave and the kids played "Simon Says" on the square.

We started the tour at a  pasticceria that opened in 1934.  Our guide, a Manhattanite living in Rome, offered us a cappuccino and cornetto, the traditional Roman breakfast.  We also sampled a mini tiramisu, a speciality of the chef Maurizo.  Next, we went to a renowned pizzeria.  Typical Roman Pizza is thin crusted and square in shape.  We tried pizza con patate - pizza with potato - and pizza margarita, both delicious.

We tried cured meats and balsamic vinegars at a family owned "salumeria."

Our stomachs rested as we visited a Protestant graveyard, home to Pyramid of Cestius from 18 BC and John Keats' grave.  Keats died of tuberculous in Rome at age 25 and requested the phrase "Here lies One Whose Name was writ in Water" be on his grave stone.  When his friend John Severn died he had "John Keats" placed on his stone.

We walked to Testaccio Market where we bought tomatoes at a family-run vegetable stand.

We used those tomatoes to make bruschetta.  Emily rubs her bread with garlic.

We ate cannolis at THE cannoli place in Rome.  Costanza moved her art from Palermo to start this forno.

We sat down and enjoyed three pasta dishes at Flavio, a restaurant known for its carbonara.

Then we tried trapizzini, pizza dough filled with Roman tripe.

Finally,  Gelato.  We learned how to tell if a place serves REAL gelato.

We returned to our hotel completely stuffed and spent the evening playing our favorite card game.

Yes, My Parents Made it to Germany

Shortly after we returned to Frankfurt in October, I proposed to my parents a ten day trip with four days in Rome for February.  I found $70 round trip tickets to Rome on Ryan Air.  Two days later they agreed to buy the tickets figuring it would only be a $140 loss if they didn't come. Once a week for the following two months Dave and I would discuss it at dinner "Did your parents buy tickets to Germany yet?"  "No, I wonder if they are really going to come." "What's your bet?" "Not likely."

The weekend before they arrived, I spent two nights not-sleeping with Owen as he spiked a 103 fever.  By Tuesday morning, their arrival date, Owen and I were both sick. Wednesday morning, Dave woke up sick.  Instead of exploring Frankfurt, my parents cared for Owen while Dave and I slept  -  all day.  Wednesday night, we packed for Rome though we doubted we would actually go.  Thursday morning, we debated.  Twenty minutes before we had to leave, we decided to just go.  Not a very relaxing start to the trip.  (Then of course, the major highway we take to Hahn Airport closed adding 30 minutes and a lot of panic to our drive.)

We arrived in Rome, found our Bed and Breakfast, and explored our neighborhood.  The next morning, we met our tour guide for the Vatican.  Dave and Owen barely made it up the three dozen stairs.  With his three coats, green complexion, and shivering affect, Dave looked like he belonged in an infirmary.  Ten minutes into the tour, they went back to the hotel.

Picture taking stopped as my thoughts began an endless loop of "Are they okay?" "Why are we here?" "What a mistake" though I did catch Emily posing like the ancient statues.

The Vatican holds my favorite Renaissance Art so I did fall into the moment.  After several hours, Dave realized the medicine he and Owen took had made them sick.   We had hope for a better day after 24hrs with no medicine and a good night sleep.

The Perfect Frankfurt Afternoon

The weather from all four seasons has appeared every hour the last few days.  Sleet, hail, incredible winds followed quickly by sunshine and warm temperatures.  We grabbed a basketball and headed to the hoops yesterday when the sun appeared but the heavens quickly opened and sent us back inside soaked.  We quickly prepared to bike downtown this afternoon when the sun seemed to remain in place.

The kids are finishing their first week of spring break while I complete a work marathon.  With a four day weekend upon us - Germany celebrates Easter with two major holidays Good Friday and Easter Monday - I left work at noon to start early.  We went to buy cheese at my favorite Friday farmers market, occurring today instead of tomorrow.




We bike down through the city, the kids rounding the ramp at the magnificent Alte Oper while Dave and I go by the fountain.   Of course, Emily almost runs a pedestrian over nipping his ankle as I apologize profusely. The rain appears but quickly abates.  I bring chocolate chip cookies to my cheese monger.  The kids anticipate tastes of their favorite Gruyeres and raw milk Bries.  I wince at the 40 euro tab, but only for a second.  These treats will be a memory soon.

We order hot chocolate, a mocha, and marmorkuchen and sit on the patio watching the shoppers on the Zeil and admiring the Hauptwache Church.  We walk down to the Galleria market in the U-bahn station and the smell of fresh breads bombard our senses.  I buy Tuscan salami, Sardinian wine, and Belgium chocolate along with salmon from the North Sea.  We admire the rows and rows of European chocolate and candy and wonder where we will buy Easter goodies next year.

We bike back up hill through the wind.  At the top Owen explains to me, "I got through the wind and made it up the tough hill even with someone talking to me."  "Who is the someone?" "YOU mom!"

The sun remains out as I set out the cheese and wine and we begin a round of "Go Fish" and savour the moment.

Emily Turns 8 (How is that possible?)

I know I posted a mere three times this year.  My friend Diane managed to complete her tour with 45 posts her last few months despite an eight month and 3 year old under foot and 50 plus hour work weeks.  I might be able to beat her if I replace my nightly wine with a few shots of espresso.  We will see.

So backing up a few months,  my baby turned 8 in January.  Eight years ago I wondered it I would ever sleep through the night again (yes), if I would ever fit back into my jeans (um, no), or if life would ever feel normal.  

Now, I wonder how did I win the lottery.

Siena, Italy

Heather and I ventured to Sienna for a day trip.  We tried to ignore the pouring rain and temps hovering on freezing to hear about Florence's great rival.  The city divides into separate neighborhoods each named for a different animal.  The town square below hosts the Palio, a  traditional medieval horse race, twice a year.  Each neighborhood or "Contrade" is represented by a horse and jockey, and the winning Contrade boasts through the next year.

We stopped in Catherine of Sienna's church.  She actually worshipped and had her visions in this Basilica.  We viewed her skull and her finger through the glass.  Yes, they have her finger preserved.

We walked through back streets and alleyways learning about how people lived in this small city.

We tried Sienna's famous cakes, and walked through Sienna Cathedral, the most amazing one I have seen thus far.

On our last day in Florence, we meandered through the market buying oils and olive wood rolling pins.

I cannot wait to return.

Last Trip to Florence - for Awhile

My friend Heather and I met in Florence for one final art, food, and more art (and more food) filled weekend.  We arrived Thursday and visited our favorite clothes and shoe stores.  As we wandered the cobblestone streets, I appreciated the intimate familiarity of visiting the same space multiple times.  An Entoncea near Ponte Vecchio pulled us in with its tiny tables and sandwiches to match.

We planned a private Medici Tour with our favorite guide, Siro, months ago.  He provided us books to read and a detailed plan to cover the major sites of this influential family.  Several days before we departed, Siro checked into the hospital with a heart virus.  He arranged for his wife Val, another certified guide, to give the tour.  She added an interesting twist by overlaying the role of women in the Medici family and in the Renaissance.

She laid the proverbial foundation in San Marco, the home of the Dominican monks.  We saw Fra Lippi paintings in several austere rooms and learned how this banking family financed aspects of the Church and how the famous monk Savonarola spewed fire to bring them down.

We finished the day at a three star Michelin restaurant where we savoured an 18 course meal.  Of course, I forgot my camera….